All hands on deck to save No. 69!

EverythingWestport.com

Saturday, November 29, 2008

 

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rsz_12Open house draws lots of visitors and interest.

 

The Westport Fishermen’s Association (WFA) showcased the Horseneck Point Lifesaving Station’s ongoing renovations at an open house Saturday on East Beach Road. Scores of people came by to hear about the restoration project and what lay in store for phase two and beyond. Life Saving Station No. 69, once so responsible for rescuing shipwrecked lives, is now itself being saved. “We have made good progress, but there is still much to be done,” Chip Gillespie, WFA volunteer said. “This is a special part of Westport’s seafaring history,” said Howard Gifford, member.

 

The Horseneck Point Lifesaving Station, the last of its kind in a network of 69, was built by the Humane Society in Massachusetts in 1888 on the east side of Westport River’s channel entrance. This area is called Horseneck Point, thus the name of the station. The Humane Society of Massachusetts was founded in 1785 because of the number of shipwrecks that were taking place in Massachusetts coastal waters.

 

The building was moved to its current location near the Gooseberry Island causeway in 1894. This is known because in 1908, the annual inspection notes say that the station was moved in January of 1894 because it was a poor place for a boat. It can be speculated that the reasons associated with the move were that most wrecks occurred to the east of the river’s entrance (courtesy of Hen and Chicks!) and it was too difficult to drag the heavy surfboat across the wide expanse of sand to reach the water’s edge. Writings from the day also indicate that the surf and currents were difficult at the river’s mouth, particularly during times when a rescue was necessary. Being at the Gooseberry location also gave the surfboat two launch points on either side of the sand bar to Gooseberry Island that is now the causeway.

 

The station housed a boat and equipment. There was a keeper and a trained crew of six volunteers who would be called upon to bring the boat out of the lifesaving station in an emergency. Some surfboat crews were trained not only in seamanship, but also with the use of various equipment including a large gun that could shoot a line into a disabled boat and allow for rescue as victims had a lifeline to the rescuers. The Westport surfboat, however, never had a gun or other breeches buoy equipment, just the boat and associated equipment. We know this from a hand-written inventory in 1889 by the Humane Society annual inspector.

 

Manning and rowing the heavy, awkward surfboat was not for the faint-of-heart. Heavy seas and freezing temperatures from winter storms made the task near impossible, and sometimes the crew was barely able to save themselves. Ship wrecks don’t happen in calm seas. Fortunately, the internal combustion engine brought about some welcome changes.

 

The building was decommissioned as a life saving station in 1913. Amazingly, it survived the hurricanes of 1938 and 1954, when other nearby buildings did not.

 

The WFA leased the station from the state’s Department of Conservation and Recreation in 2007. Over the years many additions were added to the original station, including the kiosk-style visitors’ building and the less-than-attractive raised double dormer on top of the original station. The complex’s last use was as a residence.

 

Read about the chronology of the rescue station.   

 

“The WFA was moved to undertake this project when they heard the State DCR, which owns the property, had plans to demolish the structures to clean up the area,” Gillespie said. “Mary Schmitt, who owned the property before the State took over, found the old structure inside when she did some renovations. She did a little research and found out about its previous life as a lifesaving station. She informed the Westport Historical Commission and they put up a plaque. So, when the State started to move, the WFA was aware of this and decided to step in.”

 

Lifesaving station has historical Westport ties.

 

t27t26“The historical significance of this inconspicuous lifesaving station is in its connections to some of the original families in Westport - Manchester and Head, and their links to shipbuilding, whaling and the maritime life of Westport,” Gillespie said. “George Manchester, the first Keeper of the Station, had been captain of the whaler Kate Cory, which was built in Westport. Burt Head, the second Keeper from East Beach, had run away to sea on a whaler when he was 16. His father was mate on two whalers built at the Head of Westport.  On a larger scale the station is a part of a state and then national effort throughout the late 18th and all of the 19th century to help rescue shipwreck survivors, a significant problem in the age of sail and poor navigational aids.”

 

“East Beach was in the middle of a dramatic growth in the late nineteenth century of leisure and vacation homes, a result of prosperity brought on by the Industrial Revolution, specifically the mills in Fall River and New Bedford. A whole community sprang up here between 1870 and 1895, complete with store, church, dancehall, stable, restaurant and bowling alley with houses from one end of the beach to the other. All was erased in one hurricane in 1938 except for the station and a few houses at the west end, which were apparently sheltered just enough from the worst of the storm by Gooseberry Neck,” Gillespie concluded.

 

Phase one.

 

The WFA’s first task was to “peel back” the additions and bring the station back to its original structure. It was decided to retain the existing visitors’ center to be used for the same purpose: retaining photographs and artifacts to educate area residents about Westport’s seafaring past. The picture (above left) is an early photograph of the original lifesaving station at its current location.

 

In a fortunate twist of events, an oil lamp (pictured above right) originally hung in the Horseneck Point station (above left). It was loaned to the open house from the Westport Historical Society that received it as a donation from Jim Panos of Westport who was given the lamp from a friend who had discovered it in a Maine antique store!

 

The WFA received two grants totaling $110,000 and have raised $12,000 from donations, their annual clambake, and the sale of tickets for the wooden kayaks raffled off at the bakes. “We have a bit more fundraising to do,” Gillespie said. He expects the phase two bid to be awarded with work starting in about a month.

 

Read the Dartmouth Chronicle article about CPC funding.

 

Read the article on the $60,000 DCR grant.

 

 

Demolition included separating the visitors’ center from the life saving station, demolishing all of the additions, and removing the station’s double dormer, thereby restoring the original roof line is now underway. The boathouse roof was new construction, as were over 85% of its walls. The few main support beams for the load-bearing walls, and the floor were saved. The visitors’ center, being a more recent addition, didn’t require the extensive reconstruction required of the life saving station. In fact, one can still see the center’s blackened interior roof boards from an earlier fire. Contractor Shawn Brissom and his workers did a fine job of restoring what little could be saved, and reconstructing the buildings as faithfully as possible. A new northeast foundation was required for the visitors’ center.

 

“The visitors’ center’s exterior is now completed, although the interior remains unfinished,” Gillespie said.

 

The original lifesaving station’s walls and roof are now buttoned up and weather secured. The demolition on interior walls and living spaces was extensive, having to remove years of additions that accommodated the many different uses of the building. Much work on the lifesaving station remains. “We are still seeking donations to restore the building,” explained Gillespie. Chip Gillespie has done a yeoman’s job of presenting the project to many groups in town, and soliciting help and donations for this worthwhile restoration mission.

 

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From left to right: (1) Lifesaving station before – front; (2) Lifesaving station before – back; (3) renovations underway on visitors’ center; and (4) interior of boat house showing renovations completed under phase one.

 

The open house from 1 to 3 p.m. featured hot apple cider and goodies, and casual guitar playing by volunteer Steve Young, a Westport Point resident. Talks were given by WFA Project Manager Jennifer Gelinas and Chip Gillespie, WFA volunteer. Long term Westport resident Cukie Macomber displayed his information on lightships of old, originally presented to a Westport Historical Society June 2007 meeting. Visitors received tours of the renovated visitors’ center. But the jewel in the crown was the display of the Cuttyhunk surfboat on loan from Cuttyhunk Island. The surfboat was brought over from Howie Gifford’s house where it is being temporarily housed.

 

The jewel in the lifesaving station crown.

 

The surfboat is currently on long-term loan from Mystic Seaport in Connecticut. “They finally agreed to let us have this boat for the long term, provided Cuttyhunk didn’t want it back,” Gillespie said. “Originally, the surfboat belonged to the Cuttyhunk Life Saving Station and Humane Society. As soon as the boathouse restoration work is done, we’ll move the boat in there.”

 

Read the Standard Times article on the delivery of the Cuttyhunk surfboat.

 

Read article and view pictures of Cukie’s talk about the history of lightships and their role for shipping in this area.

 

 

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From left to right: (1) Steve Young and his guitar; (2) Chip Gillespie giving a guided tour of the Cuttyhunk surfboat to Barbara Moss and Tom Kendig of Westport; (3) early photo of a surfboat being launched by its six man crew; and (4) the Cuttyhunk surfboat.

 

The surfboat arrived from Connecticut without oars. “We were able to secure some oars from donors. They are probably just about right length for a lifeboat. At least one of them, maybe more are said to have come off the wreck of the Whaler Wanderer when she went aground off Cuttyhunk. So they may actually be whale boat oars. We don't actually have a steering oar, which would have been even longer and with a little wooden leg coming off the steering end to help turn the oar,” Gillespie said.

 

The Cuttyhunk surfboat is very large; 25 feet long with six rowing stations and plenty of room for passengers (rescue victims). She has a big bluff bow, a high slender stern, and lots of sheer (longitudinal upward curvature of the deck or gunwale) allowing her to plow through heavy seas while remaining exceptionally maneuverable when heading out or home through the surf.

 

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Check out this video on the danger surfboats face in rescuing lives!

 

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From left to right: (1) The visitors’ center was overflowing with interested town residents; (2) temporary exhibits will eventually be replaced by more permanent ones with artifacts; (3) The visitors’ center shines in the sunlight.

 

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Phase two of the project will focus on interior restoration for both buildings, with the boathouse requiring the bulk of the work.

 

The collection of documentation and artifacts for the rescue station is extensive, and much research has been done with several trips to the Humane Society’s historical archives in Boston.

 

Visit the Humane Society’s historical archive now.

 

 

 

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